Maltese bread

Crunchy Maltese Bread

Although not unique within the Mediterranean framework, the Maltese society was often controlled, if not held hostage, by the importance of the daily bread and the omnipresent fear of hunger.

The provision of an adequate supply of grain has always been a preoccupation for the administrators of the islands.  The islanders faced the imminent danger of hunger and the Islands stability was at stake, whenever the source experienced scarcity.

By the medieval period the Universita or representatives of the Maltese, negotiated treaties with Sicily for the supply of grain.  This practice was kept during the reign of the Order of St.John even though they knew that this could undermine their authority on the territory of the island. 

As a further step the strategy of the Order was not only to provide supply of wheat but also to preserve and store the processing of grain.  Huge damp-proof underground granaries, which assured the proper storage and supply of grain, are still found as off today within the impregnable fortifications of the harbour cities.  

The prominence of windmills within the precincts of the city of Senglea is depicted from the siege fresco cycle paintings of Matteo Perez d’Aleccio found in the palace of the Grand Master in Valletta. 

The round tower of the windmill became one of the urban characteristics of the Maltese skyline, challenging the supremacy of the dome and steeples of the parish church.  In the villages they were centres of gathering where locals met and enjoy the tranquil pace of life.  Windmills usually stood slightly apart from the city or village centre in order to have unhindered access of the wind.  Although lack of wind deprives the operation of the windmill strong wind caused damage to both the structure and the mechanism.   

When the weather permits, the public at large was notified by means of bass audible sound that propagates around all corners of the village sending the message that the windmill is in operation.  This notification was the result of the miller’s blow of the ‘bronja’ which was like a trumpet-shell.

During the reign of the Order of St.John wheat production was considered as a lucrative market and thus was monopolised by the Order.  The profits raised were aimed primarily to fund the capital and current expenses of the up-keeping of the Forts.

The Grand Master Nicolas Cotoner gave a legislative framework to the Cotoner Foundation which was entrusted to build new windmills and administer with profit the operations of the windmills.  In a span of almost half a century between 1674 – 1727 the total of windmills in Malta increased by 33, one of which is still found in Xewkija in Gozo.

By the beginning of the eighteen century the Order decided to transfer the operational role of the windmills to the locals, whilst sustaining its regulatory functions.  In 1724, the Carafa foundation, auctioned the lease of its 10 windmills to the Maltese millers whilst in 1783 a ‘bando’ was issued by G.M Manuel de Rohan appealing to all millers not to risk grinding grain that had been contaminated by extraneous elements that could harm public health. 

Millers were given preferential status and were exempted from guard duties that were imposed on the male population by the Knights.  Moreover, after windless periods, millers were excused for not observing the Sundays and holy days of rest by special ecclesiastical dispensation. 

In 1838, the British government abolished the monopoly on windmills.  The importance of windmills was diluted with the resurgence in animal-powered mills. Horses were used to drive the dough-mixing machine.  The horse was tied to the shaft’s wooden pinion and the horse would go round to turn the machine’s gear.  The horse’s eyes were usually covered to prevent dizziness.  

Normally, two horses were used.  One horse was kept for use by the baker’s street hawker and the other for the mixing of the dough. 

With the advent of electric national grid the bakery dough-mixing machines were no longer operated by horses and during the WW II blackout orders, the machines were operated on a contingency setup powered from petrol-driven motor and using pulley systems.

During the height of the blitz of 1942, Malta suffered extremely low level of food supplies so much so that the Maltese bread was rationalised.  The scarcity of food reached such a level that at one point only ten days’ food supplies were left.  Each citizen was only limited to one slice of bread each day.

Today, thankfully, we no longer speak of the breadline. Even the poorest of our brethren are sustained by more than a crust of bread. Our daily bread is no longer a meal in itself but solely an accompaniment.  The importance of bread however is still predominant as most meals gravitate around bread.

Maltese Cuisine cannot be fully appreciated if it does not include the traditional crunchy local bread.  If you visit a typical village bar for a bottle of wine or beer in the evening or on a Sunday morning, it is a common practice that bread is served with ‘appetizers’. 

‘Hobz biz-zejt’ literally translated to bread with olive oil is spread with fresh tomatoes or tomato paste, lashing of olive oil and a healthy helping of olives, capers, raw onion, peppered cheeselets or tuna. 

Cheeselets or what the locals call ‘Gbejniet’.  Gbejniet are home-made cheeselets made from goat and sheep milk.  These cheeselets derive from a self sufficient tradition that has seen homemakers making the best of what Mother Nature provided them. 

‘Gbejniet’ come in three distinct varieties;  the fresh, dried and the peppered variety.  The peppered variety which are marinated in vinegar and acquire that particularly tangy taste, are accompanied in a typical Mediterranean way by capers, olives, fresh tomatoes.

Fresh local bread is the perfect accompaniment for an absolutely mouth-watering taste when dipped in “arjoli and bebbux”.  Arjoli, is a paste made out of crushed garlic, parsely, basil, red peppers, oil, lemon, tomatoes and vinegar that is served with a plentiful number of Maltese snails that is well strived and then cooked in salted water.  

Although not everyone might wish to indulge in a pot of arjoli with “bebbux” it is very tempting not to taste another local paste known to the Maltese the “bigilla”.  Bigilla is made up of mashed or crushed broad beans and seasoned with garlic, olive oil and parsley. 

It comes therefore at no surprise to identify the central position of bread in the delicacies which is a direct contribution of the importance of bread in daily lives of the Maltese population.  

Another form of bread known as 'Ghazziel' has traditionally been also assosciated with superstition and belief and it is said that it protects the family away from evil and temptation, be they dangers for the soul or body. 

The dough that the ghazziel is shaped out from is prepared every year from scratch by the locals in particular at Zebbug Gozo.  This unique and symbolic feature of Zebbug is entrenched with the local festival activities when the ghazziel is blessed and distributed during the feast of St.Mary that takes place on the 21st day of September. 

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